The Phanteks Eclipse 400S, and simply have the radiators outside. Getting the Mo-Ra3 420LT and 4 200mm fans.
I've used this case before, definitely a superb quality case for such a low price. The only thing I didn't like was the top of the case, looked a little bit cheap.
The Phanteks Eclipse 400S, and simply have the radiators outside. Getting the Mo-Ra3 420LT and 4 200mm fans.
I've used this case before, definitely a superb quality case for such a low price. The only thing I didn't like was the top of the case, looked a little bit cheap.
The Phanteks Eclipse 400S, and simply have the radiators outside. Getting the Mo-Ra3 420LT and 4 200mm fans.
I've used this case before, definitely a superb quality case for such a low price. The only thing I didn't like was the top of the case, looked a little bit cheap.
Easy to work with?
Depends, if you're using an air cooler then yes. If you plan on using an AIO cooler with either 240 or 280mm radiators you'll have to mount them at the front which will require you to remove the front intake fans. Make sure (if you plan to install the radiators at the front) you make them intake and exhaust with the back and top fans (top fans not included). I personally find Corsair or NZXT cases to be easiest to work with but at the end of the day a case is a case the difference is not that big.
*I just noticed in you sig you do your own custom water loop. I've never done that before and if I was to I would personally prefer a full tower case rather than a mid. The Eclipse is a very small case. The same size as a NZXT S340.
Depends, if you're using an air cooler then yes. If you plan on using an AIO cooler with either 240 or 280mm radiators you'll have to mount them at the front which will require you to remove the front intake fans. Make sure (if you plan to install the radiators at the front) you make them intake and exhaust with the back and top fans (top fans not included). I personally find Corsair or NZXT cases to be easiest to work with but at the end of the day a case is a case the difference is not that big.
*I just noticed in you sig you do your own custom water loop. I've never done that before and if I was to I would personally prefer a full tower case rather than a mid. The Eclipse is a very small case. The same size as a NZXT S340.
I was planning on using a MO-RA3 420LT radiator. There is no case that can fit it so it would be standalone anyway. Couple it with 4 200mm fans for silent yet super cooling.
Depends, if you're using an air cooler then yes. If you plan on using an AIO cooler with either 240 or 280mm radiators you'll have to mount them at the front which will require you to remove the front intake fans. Make sure (if you plan to install the radiators at the front) you make them intake and exhaust with the back and top fans (top fans not included). I personally find Corsair or NZXT cases to be easiest to work with but at the end of the day a case is a case the difference is not that big.
*I just noticed in you sig you do your own custom water loop. I've never done that before and if I was to I would personally prefer a full tower case rather than a mid. The Eclipse is a very small case. The same size as a NZXT S340.
I was planning on using a MO-RA3 420LT radiator. There is no case that can fit it so it would be standalone anyway. Couple it with 4 200mm fans for silent yet super cooling.
That is if I switch.
I personally prefer to use a case that is proportional in price to my other components. It sounds like you are going to spend a fair amount on cooling alone. I don't think these budget cases are the best for such systems or if you were to do so it would be ideal to use a full tower simply because you would have more space to work with.
I personally prefer to use a case that is proportional in price to my other components. It sounds like you are going to spend a fair amount on cooling alone. I don't think these budget cases are the best for such systems or if you were to do so it would be ideal to use a full tower simply because you would have more space to work with.
I got the LD Cooling V-8 atm. I believe it is slightly larger than the Corsair 900D.
Also thinking about replacing my processor. Currently using i5-7500, 3.4Ghz but I want to upgrade to a higher one. Looking at some options here http://www.armchairempire.com/Reviews/gaming-cpu-reviews
Any recommendations?
I recommend you stop using posts to pimp your website.
So, I popped on a new monitor and I have to say I'm really happy with it. Acer Predator Z35P. Also made a few tweaks to my case such as the "modded" top lid to allow airflow without having to remove the lid every time I turn on my computer.
new AOC 27" 1440p 165Hz IPS. had the 35" ultrawide 1440p 100Hz MVA version in my cart all week but when it came time to purchase i got an update that this was on sale. will be regretting, but the ~$400 saved was worth it for now. just need to get it up on my wall-mount. also added some cheap LED strips to the case.
haven't done much testing of the 1070 at 1440p with many very demanding games yet. but with games maxed and Nvidia Control Panel running highest quality options with Anti-Aliasing Mode - Enhance 8x & Transparent 2x, averages so far;
The Phanteks Eclipse 400S, and simply have the radiators outside. Getting the Mo-Ra3 420LT and 4 200mm fans.
i considered that case, i really liked the Satin Black Steel Silent version. the P400 is one of the best series i've seen in that price bracket.
couple i'm really thinking about moving to is either the Thermaltake Core X71 Tempered Glass or Be Quiet! Dark Base Pro 900. not too sure about the Core X71's mesh exteriors though, i'd like to actually see it in person first. also really like the Thermaltake View 31 with tempered glass.
So I have a GTX 1080Ti coming tomorrow... Was a little tipsy when I pulled the trigger after a stag night but now that I'm sober I'm not really really regret so I'll keep it.
So I have a GTX 1080Ti coming tomorrow... Was a little tipsy when I pulled the trigger after a stag night but now that I'm sober I'm not really really regret so I'll keep it.
It's a FE Ti... ,?
I'm not that sober...
have the FTW3 ICX impatiently waiting in my shopping cart. plan to jump on this weekend or next if the prices fluctuate in the right direction. need the upgrade already now for >120fps 1440p in certain titles.
So I have a GTX 1080Ti coming tomorrow... Was a little tipsy when I pulled the trigger after a stag night but now that I'm sober I'm not really really regret so I'll keep it.
It's a FE Ti... ,?
I'm not that sober...
have the FTW3 ICX impatiently waiting in my shopping cart. plan to jump on this weekend or next if the prices fluctuate in the right direction. need the upgrade already now for >120fps 1440p in certain titles.
Pull the trigger!...
My 1070 wasn't cutting it for 4K and lowering resolution on a 40" monitor is a no go area so I had almost no first world choice.
Here's some pics, haven't had time to bench it or even play a game. On my way to shoot a wedding... But soon!
@ronvalencia: I love the way that RAM looks. Congrats!
On topic, this is what I get for building a PC for the In-Laws. Now I have to build semi-budget PC's for all the gaming age kids. I still have to get the ssd and more blue lights since the kid is a UofM fan... I hate UofM
@goldenelementxl: Ryzen 5 1600? That's a decent gaming computer. Should run nice and quiet.
Yeah I went with the 1600 for this one. It seemed like the most "future proof" CPU for the budget I was given. This is actually the first AMD CPU I've ever built with. The Ryzen stuff is just too good to pass up.
@goldenelementxl: Ryzen 5 1600? That's a decent gaming computer. Should run nice and quiet.
Yeah I went with the 1600 for this one. It seemed like the most "future proof" CPU for the budget I was given. This is actually the first AMD CPU I've ever built with. The Ryzen stuff is just too good to pass up.
At the price point it is I bet. Also helps that games are getting more and more optimized for Ryzen.
have the FTW3 ICX impatiently waiting in my shopping cart. plan to jump on this weekend or next if the prices fluctuate in the right direction. need the upgrade already now for >120fps 1440p in certain titles.
Pull the trigger!..
FTW3 order has processed. should be here tues\wed. ended up finding one for $750. crazy how much the prices have fluctuated this year.
now to decide if it is worth it to try selling my new display and going for the ultrawide high refresh rate model.
have the FTW3 ICX impatiently waiting in my shopping cart. plan to jump on this weekend or next if the prices fluctuate in the right direction. need the upgrade already now for >120fps 1440p in certain titles.
Pull the trigger!..
FTW3 order has processed. should be here tues\wed. ended up finding one for $750. once i have the funds transfer for my 1070 i will have ended up getting the 1080 Ti for less than what i originally paid for the 1070, which was a also a good deal at the time. crazy how much the prices have fluctuated this year.
now to decide if it is worth it to try selling my new display and going for the ultrawide high refresh rate model.
You wont regret it. I went from playing The Division on medium settings at 45-50FPS at 4K to minus AA the highest settings at 60FPS.
I gave my 1070 to a friend who was still using a GTX 670 on a 2560x1440 32" Benq... Had to do it, That thing just don't cut it no more. RIP Keplar.
that mess would drive me nuts. get some matching colored PVC and do some cable routing\tidying.
A lot of it actually is tied down. It's less messy than the photo makes it look, plus some of it was in flux when I took this. I have to keep a few wires loose because there are parts of the setup that get swapped out depending on what games I'm playing (HOTAS setup or Wheel/Pedals/Shifter).
The actual setup extends beyond this. I don't have photos of the rest of it because the basement is a mess but here's the plan of what's built:
I blame @ronvalencia for taking me down this silly path. I didn't even know RAM with LEDs was a thing until I saw his post. And now I have 32GB of RAM but still have 4 open slots on my motherboard. I dont NEED 64GB of RAM, but it would sure look better on my mobo. Thanks Ron...
that mess would drive me nuts. get some matching colored PVC and do some cable routing\tidying.
A lot of it actually is tied down. It's less messy than the photo makes it look, plus some of it was in flux when I took this. I have to keep a few wires loose because there are parts of the setup that get swapped out depending on what games I'm playing (HOTAS setup or Wheel/Pedals/Shifter).
The actual setup extends beyond this. I don't have photos of the rest of it because the basement is a mess but here's the plan of what's built:
Here's the arcade machine and TV:
-Byshop
Very nice plan setup. I also have a projector with a very large screen but haven't bothered setting it up i.e. in the middle of house renovation.
I might ditch my old Fractal R4 case for InWin 509 case.
Very nice plan setup. I also have a projector with a very large screen but haven't bothered setting it up i.e. in the middle of house renovation.
Thanks. That diagram is "as built" right now. Basically I have the PC in one room, but I've extended the gaming rig to the second room where I can present it to either the projector (on an 80" screen) or the 4k TV by the couch. I'm using a Control4 system, which is a mid to high end home automation system for entertainment systems. I have RF remotes which can move from room to room and allow me to choose what device is presented to what display. In the basement presented in the diagram, I can put any of the following sources:
Gaming rig PC (3770k i7 with dual 1080s)
PS4 Pro
Xbox One
Nintendo Switch
Wii-U
Roku
Personal Plex server
Netflix
Youtube
Hulu
Amazon
PBS
To any of the following three outputs:
Projection screen
4k TV by couch
4k TV by arcade machine/workout equipment
I also have an Oculus and Vive setup in the projector room with roomspace set up. I can also play the Oculus in the cockpit for vehicle simulation type games.
The Control4 System allows me to pick from any available source in the room that I'm in and the system will automatically enter whatever inputs are necessary on the receiver, tv, etc to make that happen. The arcade machine can also use the TV right by it as a second monitor, for example, so in that room "Arcade Machine" is one of the sources I can pick from in addition to the ones listed above. Otherwise, all sources are available in all rooms.
At the very least, it's nice to be able to use the gaming rig in multiple rooms. If I'm watching TV on the projector with my wife, I can play any game on my gaming rig on the TV to my left. If I'm playing a game on the projection screen, I can throw a TV show on in the background on the nearby TV. If I'm working out on the elliptical trainer, I can watch any of the same sources I use in the other room.
Got my new case today. Will most likely re-do my whole rig before Christmas I think.
The time depends somewhat on nVidia/Intel releasing something new. Volta from nVidia or Coffee Lake from Intel.
I got the water pump already, want MO-RA3 rad, and maybe EK CE 280, 4 fans or so and tubing and fittings.
great case. volta for the win
Went ahead and got a delidding kit and EK CE 280. In case I want ever return to simpler cooling. Like only water cooling the CPU or GPU.
judging by an article i read on pc gamer if you go the delid route, you should prolly get cpu operating temps of at least 8C to 10C less than what it would if you did not delid the cpu.
judging by an article i read on pc gamer if you go the delid route, you should prolly get cpu operating temps of at least 8C to 10C less than what it would if you did not delid the cpu.
Sorry for the awful quality on the picture. It's the best my phone can do. Put in a 280 rad in my case. The pump is there as well but not secured in anyway. Something that will be a bit tricky as the radiator keeps it such that I can not take it out. Also slightly less space there than I want. If the shroud was 5-10mm higher it would be perfect really.
@horgen: I guessing if you get double those cooling temps, then if you get say a new 4ghz cpu you might be able to oc it to 4.6 or 4.8 possibly.
in terms of the 280 rad cooler, for building do you put the mobo with cpu and memory installed, psu, then ssd or hdd first, before fans and cooling equipment so you can decide how you want to run cable organization, or is the case roomy enough so it doesn't matter.
@horgen: I guessing if you get double those cooling temps, then if you get say a new 4ghz cpu you might be able to oc it to 4.6 or 4.8 possibly.
in terms of the 280 rad cooler, for building do you put the mobo with cpu and memory installed, psu, then ssd or hdd first, before fans and cooling equipment so you can decide how you want to run cable organization, or is the case roomy enough so it doesn't matter.
Cable management usually isn't a problem. When I have this rig fully up and running, I only want 1 GPU in it, though 2 won't be a problem really. I am getting another radiator outside the case. Connected through this. There is a fan hub in this case, so I'll be running only a single fan wire from my mobo. The SSDs will be hidden behind the motherboard tray.
I usually put in the mobo first, bare, then install everything on it. This time though I think I will have the CPU and CPU block on it before I install it in the case. RAM is easy to put in later on. Then I'll get the SSD and possible HDD in it. GPU with waterblock then I think about the tubing for water cooling. I usually have an idea how I would like to run them before I start, but I don't get the full picture before everything is installed into the case. Depending on noise, I might put some noise insulation around the pump basically.
FTW3 order has processed. should be here tues\wed...
You wont regret it. I went from playing The Division on medium settings at 45-50FPS at 4K to minus AA the highest settings at 60FPS...
definitely a nice boost. have raised AA settings in games and in Nvidia Control Panel's filters and still have a good 100+fps in almost every game i've tried @ 1440p. so far Crysis 3 & Mankind Divided are the only 2 that don't break 100fps with highest settings.
A lot of it actually is tied down. It's less messy than the photo makes it look, plus some of it was in flux when I took this. I have to keep a few wires loose because there are parts of the setup that get swapped out depending on what games I'm playing (HOTAS setup or Wheel/Pedals/Shifter).
The actual setup extends beyond this. I don't have photos of the rest of it because the basement is a mess but here's the plan of what's built:
Thanks. Control4 is an amazing system for home automation (more around infotainment versus security). It's incredibly versatile, but the tradeoff is it's expensive AF. A single controller (I have five) might run you more than 1k and an actual professional install will probably run you 10-15k minimum. I built mine myself using older used controllers I've gotten off of ebay and programmed with the help of a friend of a friend who's an authorized dealer. What the system is capable of doing is phenomenal, but I guess that should be expected for something so expensive it's intended for Tony Stark House levels of home automation. Basically, you build out your entire entertainment system in a designer application, showing how each device is connected to every other device, including the controllers. Then you program the system with sources (Xbox, PS4, PC, etc) and endpoints (TVs, Stereos, Projectors, etc) and the system figures out the rest. I press something on the remote that says "I want to watch Netflix in Home Theater" and the system turns on the receiver, flips it to the Roku (which I've designated as the device for Netflix), opens the Netflix app on the Roku, turns on the projector, sets it to the correct input, and sets the remote in my hand to handle Roku navigation through all of the buttons except for volume, which control the stereo receiver. If I want to play Xbox One on the TV next to me, I hit "Watch Xbox One on Side Area" and it turns on the TV, sets it to the right input, turns on the Xbox One, sets the remote to control the Xbox One for navigation and the TV for volume.
I used to think of "universal remotes" as GF/wife devices so those less technically inclined didn't have to learn a four remote procedure to watch anything, but the Control4 system makes it so seamless that I use it primarily over any of my direct remotes. Even better is the fact that they are RF remotes, so you can stick all your components in a closet somewhere and control them with a single remote while they are completely out of sight. Great for multi-room configurations.
@Grey_Eyed_Elf: @ronvalencia: @elessarGObonzo: How are you all enjoying the 1080Ti's? I really wanted to wait for the next GPUs, but the demand and asking price for the 1070 FTWs is so hot right now, I don't think I can sit on them any longer. If you all were in my spot, would you bite on the 1080 Ti's or wait? I'm looking to upgrade to a 1440p 144+ Hz G-sync monitor if that helps. My other option would be buying a regular 1080 and then selling that when the new stuff drops.
@Grey_Eyed_Elf: @ronvalencia: @elessarGObonzo: How are you all enjoying the 1080Ti's? I really wanted to wait for the next GPUs, but the demand and asking price for the 1070 FTWs is so hot right now, I don't think I can sit on them any longer. If you all were in my spot, would you bite on the 1080 Ti's or wait? I'm looking to upgrade to a 1440p 144+ Hz G-sync monitor if that helps. My other option would be buying a regular 1080 and then selling that when the new stuff drops.
I hate being in GPU limbo...
GTX 1080 Ti is just a faster 980 Ti with Async compute improvements.
If you are targeting GTX 1070 and GTX 1080 price segments, you could wait for VEGA 56 and VEGA 64 to put some pressure on prices.
@goldenelementxl: I upgrade my GPU every year so I am the wrong person to ask if you should get one or wait.
I game at 4K and the jump from a 1070 to the 1080 Ti was substantial and easily worth the price. To me everything depends on the resolution you game and what you play... Since you are after a 1440p 144Hz display then I would highly advise you go with the 1080 Ti, 1440p with a 1070 you would be lucky to get 100FPS with BF1 on High settings. I agree with Ron and recommend waiting for Vega since its just a few weeks away and looks to be and even if you don't want a AMD GPU the launch of Vega will push Nvidia to cut prices.
Waiting for Volta is a good idea if you can wait... I cannot, its why my wife hates me.
@Grey_Eyed_Elf: @ronvalencia: @elessarGObonzo: How are you all enjoying the 1080Ti's? I really wanted to wait for the next GPUs, but the demand and asking price for the 1070 FTWs is so hot right now, I don't think I can sit on them any longer. If you all were in my spot, would you bite on the 1080 Ti's or wait? I'm looking to upgrade to a 1440p 144+ Hz G-sync monitor if that helps. My other option would be buying a regular 1080 and then selling that when the new stuff drops.
I hate being in GPU limbo...
With 980Ti Sli I am waiting for Volta it seems. Vega rumors aren't promising =/
@Grey_Eyed_Elf: @ronvalencia: @elessarGObonzo: How are you all enjoying the 1080Ti's? I really wanted to wait for the next GPUs, but the demand and asking price for the 1070 FTWs is so hot right now, I don't think I can sit on them any longer. If you all were in my spot, would you bite on the 1080 Ti's or wait? I'm looking to upgrade to a 1440p 144+ Hz G-sync monitor if that helps. My other option would be buying a regular 1080 and then selling that when the new stuff drops.
I hate being in GPU limbo...
With 980Ti Sli I am waiting for Volta it seems. Vega rumors aren't promising =/
@ 1440p 165Hz;
went from an overclocked ACX3.0 1070, getting 65-100fps in most newer demanding games with low AA settings and turning down shadows and/or textures a bit in many.
to the FTW3 1080 Ti getting 120+fps in those same games with AA turned up ingame + some AA enhancements in NCP, and maxed in other game settings(except blur, DoF, etc always OFF). the only ones under 100fps are Crysis 3 & Mankind Divided hitting ~75-90 with all the good graphical settings maxed.
got more back for my 1070 used than i initially paid for it.
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